Speedline Elite Carbon Crank Install Guide | Supercross BMX
Speedline Elite Carbon Crank Installation
A complete installation guide for Speedline Elite Hollow Carbon BMX Race Cranks. Our cranks use a proprietary 30mm tapered spline spindle with self-extracting bolts on each side—there is NO pinch bolt and no CINCH system. Watch team rider Nick Valencia walk through the install below, then use the written steps, torque specs, and troubleshooting guide as a permanent reference.
About the Speedline Interface Speedline Elite Carbon Cranks use a unique 30mm tapered spline design. This is not a SRAM DUB, Easton CINCH, or e*thirteen system—parts are not cross-compatible. Each arm is secured with its own self-extracting bolt using a single 10mm Allen wrench.
⚠ Critical: Do Not Remove the Crank End Caps The end caps on your Speedline Elite Carbon Cranks are not decorative—they are the retaining caps for the self-extracting (one-key) removal system. If you remove the end caps, your arms cannot be pulled off the spindle without a separate crank puller and will effectively be stuck. Always leave the end caps installed. When loosening the self-extracting bolt, the end cap stays in the arm—only the inner bolt backs out.
What's in the Box
- Drive-side crank arm (with 30mm spindle pressed in)
- Non-drive-side crank arm
- Sealed high-speed steel bearing bottom bracket (EB30, matched to the 30mm spindle)
- Matching bottom bracket installation tool
- 10mm Allen wrench (used for crank install, removal, and the end-cap tool)
- End-cap tightening tool
- Polyethylene spindle washer
- Two pedal washers
Not Included A chainring. Pick whatever tooth count and brand works for your gearing.
Tools You'll Need
10mm Allen wrench (included)
Speedline BB tool (included)
End-cap tool (included)
Quality bike grease
Shop rag & Q-tips
Torque wrench (recommended)
2.5mm BB spacers (as needed for chain line)
Installation Steps
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Grease the bottom bracket threads in the frame. Using a finger, Q-tip, or shop rag, apply a liberal coat of grease to the BB shell threads on both sides of the frame. This protects the threads and keeps the install quiet. Wipe up any excess—too much is not a problem.
Pro TipMost crank creaks people report are caused by dry threads or a dry spindle. Grease every moving interface during install.
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Identify the bottom bracket cups. The included high-speed steel BB cups are labeled L and R on the bearing casing, along with an arrow indicating the tighten direction.
ImportantUnlike most standard bottom brackets, both Speedline cups thread in the same direction. Pay attention to the arrows on the cup—they tell you which way to tighten.
- Thread the BB cups in by hand. Start the left (non-drive) cup first, then the right. They should spin in smoothly by hand. If you feel resistance, back out, wipe the threads, and re-grease—don't force it.
- Snug the cups with the included BB tool. Hand-tighten until snug, then give each cup approximately ½ to ⅔ of a turn more with the tool. The cups don't need to be cranked down—the crank preload will seat everything.
- Install the polyethylene spindle washer. Slide the included thin white washer over the 30mm spindle against the drive-side crank arm. This protects the bearing interface and keeps the spindle spinning smoothly.
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Grease the 30mm spindle. Apply a light, even coat of grease along the length of the spindle. This lubes the bearings during install and prevents squeaks down the road.
Light Grease on the SpindleApply a thin, even film of grease to the 30mm spindle, including the tapered spline area. A light coat prevents galling, quiets the interface, and makes future removal easier—do not apply so much that grease pools or drips.
- Slide the drive-side arm through the frame. Insert the drive-side arm/spindle assembly through the drive-side BB cup and push it all the way through until the spindle exits the non-drive side. With a new set of cranks, the fit can be snug—a light tap with an open hand on the end of the spindle is fine to seat it.
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Install the non-drive-side arm. Align the non-drive arm with the tapered spline on the spindle so the two arms sit 180° opposite each other. Slide it onto the spline by hand.
Tapered Spline AlignmentIf the arm doesn't seat cleanly by hand, back it off and realign—never force a misaligned spline. Forcing it damages the high-tolerance mating surfaces and voids warranty.
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Thread and tighten the self-extracting bolt. Using the included 10mm Allen wrench, thread the self-extracting bolt into the spindle and tighten to 45 Nm. The crankset should spin freely with no lateral play once torqued.
Target: 45 NmThis is the correct spec for the Speedline Elite Carbon self-extracting crank bolts. Use a torque wrench whenever possible. If the cranks bind after torquing, pull the arms and check that the tapered spline is seated cleanly—do not back off torque below spec.
- Check and adjust chain line with BB spacers (if needed). On a standard Supercross Vision F1 build, you'll typically want one (sometimes two) 2.5mm BB spacers behind the drive-side BB cup to set the chain line straight. Every frame is slightly different—check your chain line and adjust as needed. Spacers are available on the web store.
- Install pedals with the included pedal washers. Always use the supplied pedal washers. They protect the carbon pedal boss from damage caused by the pedal axle face.
Torque Specs
| Fastener | Torque | Tool |
|---|---|---|
| Bottom bracket cups | Hand-snug + ~½–⅔ turn | Included BB tool |
| Self-extracting crank bolts | 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs) | 10mm Allen wrench |
| End cap | Snug (no significant torque needed) | End-cap tool + 10mm Allen |
| Pedals (with washers) | Per pedal manufacturer spec (typically 30–35 Nm) | Pedal wrench |
Torque MattersSpeedline Elite Carbon cranks are engineered to seat at 45 Nm on the self-extracting bolts. Under-torqued arms will develop play and damage the tapered spline interface. Over-torqued arms can damage the self-extracting retaining system. A calibrated torque wrench is strongly recommended.
Do's & Don'ts
✓ Do
- Grease BB threads, spindle (including the tapered spline area), and bearing lands with a light coat
- Follow the tighten-direction arrows on the BB cups
- Align the tapered spline by hand before tightening
- Torque self-extracting bolts to 45 Nm
- Use the included pedal washers every time
- Leave the crank end caps installed at all times
- Spin the cranks to confirm smooth, drag-free rotation
- Check chain line and add 2.5mm spacers as needed
✗ Don't
- NEVER remove the crank end caps—they are the self-extracting retaining caps. Without them, the arm cannot be pulled off the spindle
- Don't force a misaligned spline—realign and try again
- Don't over-tighten the BB cups—snug plus ½ turn is enough
- Don't look for a pinch bolt—there isn't one (this is not a CINCH system)
- Don't run pedals without pedal washers on carbon arms
- Don't ignore a creak—disassemble, clean, regrease, reinstall
Troubleshooting
My cranks are creaking or squeaking
Almost always caused by a dry interface or a loose fastener. Remove the cranks, clean the spindle, BB threads, and bearing lands, regrease every moving surface (not the splines), and reinstall. If the creak persists, check pedal torque and pedal washers—pedals are a very common source of mystery crank creaks.
I feel side-to-side play in the crank arms
Tighten the self-extracting bolt a bit further. If play remains, pull the arm and verify the tapered spline is seated cleanly—any debris on the spline will prevent a proper fit.
The cranks don't spin freely / feel tight when I pedal
Back off the self-extracting bolt slightly. The goal is a preload that removes play without crushing the bearings. Also check that your BB cups aren't over-tightened and that you haven't added too many BB spacers.
The chain is rubbing the frame / chain line looks off
Add or remove a 2.5mm BB spacer behind the drive-side BB cup. One spacer is typical on a Vision F1; other frames may need zero, one, or two.
The non-drive arm won't slide onto the spline
Back it off and realign—the tapered spline is keyed and only seats in one correct orientation. Never hammer or force the arm onto the spindle.
My crank arm is stuck on the spindle and won't come off
First, confirm that the crank end caps are still installed. The self-extracting removal system relies on the end cap being in place—the inner bolt pushes against the end cap to walk the arm off the spline. If the end cap has been removed, you will need a separate M-threaded carbon crank puller to extract the arm. Never hammer, pry, or impact the crank arm to remove it—this will damage the carbon.
The BB cup won't thread in smoothly
Confirm you're threading the correct direction per the arrow on the cup (both Speedline cups thread the same way, which is unusual). Clean and regrease the frame threads, and start the cup by hand—never start it with a tool.
Crank Removal — End Caps Must Stay In These cranks use a self-extracting (one-key) design, so no separate crank puller is required—but only if the end caps are in place. The end cap is what the self-extracting bolt pushes against to pull the arm off the spindle. To remove: simply unthread each self-extracting bolt counter-clockwise with the 10mm Allen wrench. As the bolt backs out, it presses against the retaining end cap and walks the arm off the spline. If the end caps have been removed, you will need a separate M-threaded crank puller or the arms will be stuck on the spindle.
Frequently Asked Questions
What torque spec do Speedline Elite Carbon cranks need?
The self-extracting crank bolts should be torqued to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs) using a 10mm Allen wrench.
Do Speedline cranks use the SRAM DUB, Easton CINCH, or e*thirteen system?
No. Speedline Elite Carbon cranks use a proprietary 30mm tapered spline design with self-extracting bolts on each side. There is no pinch bolt and no CINCH system. Parts are not cross-compatible with SRAM, Easton, e*thirteen, or Race Face.
What size spindle do Speedline cranks have?
Speedline Elite Carbon cranks use a 30mm oversized spindle paired with an EB30 sealed-bearing bottom bracket.
Should I grease the spindle?
Yes. Apply a light, even film of grease to the 30mm spindle including the tapered spline area. This prevents galling, keeps the interface quiet, and makes future removal easier.
Can I remove the crank end caps to clean them?
No. The end caps are part of the one-key self-extracting removal system. If you remove the end caps, your crank arms will be stuck on the spindle and will require a separate crank puller to remove. Always leave the end caps installed.
How do I remove Speedline cranks?
With the end caps in place, simply unthread each self-extracting bolt counter-clockwise using the 10mm Allen wrench. As the bolt backs out, it presses against the retaining end cap and walks the arm off the spline. No separate crank puller is required.
Why are my Speedline cranks creaking?
The most common cause is a dry interface. Remove the cranks, clean the spindle, BB threads, and bearing lands, apply fresh grease, and reinstall. Also verify pedal torque and pedal washers are installed—pedals are a frequent source of mystery crank creaks.
Questions? Contact Supercross BMX / Speedline Parts customer service—we're happy to help.